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I plant tomatoes, cucumbers, zucchini, peppers, potatos in tubs and have 4' of rounded wire inside the tubs. The zucchini and cucumbers use the wire to vine. The potatoes don't need the wire.
jeannereed

6" X 6" cement reinforcing wire will make supports for clinbing plants
tomato squash beans - cut off bottom wire and will have 6" to push in to soil - these last for many years

I use string and run the row with my Tomatoes and I add a line up as they grow on each side being very careful as not to harm the plants.

I cut the bottom off of flimsey 1 Gal. nursery pots and place them into the ground around my new plants to protect from the wind when the plants are fragile. They can be removed when the plants are stronger, and used again and again.

i use homemade trellis type devices or inverted tomato cages to support my plants... it all depends on each plants needs

I use 1" PVC pipe for tomato plants. Initial piece about four ft. and drive into the ground 8-10". As plants grow, add a 4-way cross fitting atop pipe and additional 18"L. pipes in the remaining vertical and horizontal connections of the 4-way. Great way also to feed your plants roots, just fill the pipe with water or fertilizer solution.

i use cattle fence wire, the one with 4x4 holes in it. some people call it hog wire. i drive metal fence posts in the ground. attach the fence wire to it with plastic cable wire. t-shirt cut into strips to support the tomatoe plant. i also use this same set-up for my cukes. i plan to use it for gourds next year.

I use an old metal bunk bed frame for tomatoes and an old metal futon welded to a broken popason chair for my cukes and pickles works great and pom pis people think it's garden art.

For beans, I use corn plants for stakes to tie them up. The actual living corn plant. When planting I always mix the bean and corn seed together in the same hole, just like the SW Indians used to do.

This year I used concrete reinforcing wire 6" x 6" x 10' x 5'. I cut the panels in half lengthwise and staked every four or five feet. I used four panels end to end so I have 40' of panel spaced 16" apart. I cut spacers 18" long with a saw kerf one inch from each end. I also used the spacers to hold the plants upright. It takes a lot of spacers, but if you have access to scrap wood--packing crates etc.--it just the time to cut them. Once you have the spacers, they'll last for several years. Store them in a box or five-gallon pail. The panels store easily either flat or standing up.

I also use a string/trellis system for smaller tomatoes like romas or early girls.

My pickles and cukes are trained to climb a fence covered with chicken wire.

I use concrete re inforcement wire cages for everything. Add a couple of stakes to prevemt them from falling/blowing over and you are set for hastle free gardening

I make a frame out of electric conduit and use nylon garden netting for my plants to grow on.

I use Confederate Rose Stems/Branches. I allow them to dry into the new growing season and they just snap at the ground, usually leaving me with a pointed end to drive into the soil. It has worked for making 10 to 12 foot tall teepees for beans, and even using the stronger parts lashed together with grapevine to create a support grid for cucumbers, and even gourds. It usually lasts for about two seasons, but they go right into my slo-compost. It also allows me to rotate my crops and to try new maybe better configurations of my supports. I did see an interesting PVC tomato caging project online today so that may be my attempt for 2012.

I made a frame out of 1/2 in pvc pipe. It is ten feet wide & 7 feet high with 3 legs (1 in the middle). I placed about a foot of each leg into 1 inch pvc pipe which I burried in the ground for extra support.
I used Tees & Ells to join the pipe. I placed a piece about midway up the frame & a piece midway accross which now gave me 4 oblong sections. To guide the cuccumbers I next used brown twine strung accross left to right. I added twine about every 4 inches going up the frame. when the plants started to grow I would guide them up the frame where they would lock on to the twine & climb on their own. I now have a trellis full of cuccumbers which are easy to get at. John F.Rossano

I use heavy duty string for my tomatoes and bell pepper plants. As the plants get to 1 ft. heights, I tie the string to my porch rails and in the yard to the fence boards. Tying to the back side of the rails and fence boards all I have to do at the end of the season is cut the string and toss away. I run the string around the front of the plant and tie off. It usually takes about 3 ft of string.

I recycle from my garden. Bamboo works well for for my raspberry frames and cucumber and honeysuckle trellises. The only cost is twine for lashing. I also made a bamboo frame for netting off my blueberries. Of course, I let the bamboo dry out fully before sticking any of it in the ground! I don't want any more bamboo than what came with the house.

We have Mediterranean palms in our yard, and I discovered the leaf canes are extremely strong and durable, lasting several years. I use them to stake peppers and eggplants, plants that need only single stakes.

I use concrete reinforcing wire. I cut the wire in half to add height. My baskets are 7 foot tall and 2 1/2 foot around. I support them with 2 1/2 inch rebar burried 2 foot and tied to the cages with zip ties. My better boy plants fill these baskets so the rebar is 8 foot long to support the tomato trees.I weave the limbs through the cage and the plants grow out of the top and cascade back down to within 2 foot of the ground.Last year was a bad year, the plants only averaged 43 pounds of tomatoes per plant.

i use a tomatoe cage and when that gets to small i add a long support pole ( light to stake a tree ) to ancor the cage to , i picked 44 tomatoes from 8 plants in one day , so my plants get very heavy and fall over, i tie up with t-shirt strips, as they do not cut into the plant and can give a little.

Hey brawls! I'm using cattle guard fencing, too! That stuff is incredibly strong. I've made one arched arbor out of it that I can walk through and pick the veggies off that hang through it. I'll be putting in a second larger one later this month, and the plan is to throw a plastic cover over it come winter and use it as a greenhouse until spring planting time.

For smaller veggies, I use 5 gallon paint stir sticks. You can drill holes in them for string or cut them to a notch at the top to prop up top heavy plants. Works great and they are free for the asking at most home centers/paint stores. From rdRhino

planting cucumbers along a chain link fence works well-if you have a corner you can plant both ways from the corner and make a garden in the middle

cherry tomato plants--no one is tall enough to drive the stake that that these guys will not outgrow--try making an arbor with (2) 6 ft tall square trellis for each of (2) plants each staked on both sides with strong hardwood stakes. next place a 4 ft high trellis across the top of the other two. Tie the 6 footers to the stakes and the 4 footer to the top of the 6 footers using electrical cable ties. Train and ties the plants and you have good access for picking and the plants lay across the top instead of breaking over.

I practice square foot gardening and have an upright 7 ft t post at both sides of the area. Then secure something across the top and hang twine down to wrap around the tomatoes, cukes or whatever. It will last many years

I use an 8' piece of 5/8" rebar for tomatoes. Drive it into the ground until it is stable and use garden wire to tie it to the tomato plant. I keep the plant with only three main stems and it works great. I usually paint the rebar with rustoleum oil base paint so it is green and doesn't show. It requires keeping up on trimming the main stem shoots that want to start. i have used the same rebar for a lot of years and expect to use it for a lot more. I can plant the tomatoes in a fairly narrow space and plant chard or carrots at their base or in between plants. Cherry tomatoes grow too tall to have rebar work very well..